Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
River Thames: Reading to Windsor
Section Length: 31 miles (50 km)
Time Taken: 10 hrs 10 mins
Dates Walked: 22nd , 23rd & 28th September 2017
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Logistics: This section was covered in three legs.
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Leg one was Reading to Henley, 9 miles.
This involved parking at Henley station and catching a train to Reading via Twyford. (half-hourly service)
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Leg two was Henley to Marlow (8.5 miles). This involved parking at Marlow and catching a bus to Henley four buses hourly)
The final leg was Marlow to Windsor (13.5 miles).
In this case I again parked in Marlow. Once complete it was 3 trains from Windsor and Eton Central to Marlow, via Slough and Maidenhead (hourly off-peak, half-hourly peak).
After passing Caversham Lock the path follows the edge of Kings Meadow before passing through a narrow wooded area the sort of place you wouldn’t want to be after dark, before reaching the Avon and Kennet canal and crossing the canal by the railway line.
Very soon the path is in open countryside once again, initially passing Thames Valley Park. The path alternates between open fields and woodland before reaching Sonning, where the river is crossed.
Another of those nondescript sections is next where the scenery is much of a muchness and nothing really stands out.
There are some benches near Shiplake College, which gives some welcome respite and a chance to rest your feet.
At Shiplake Lock the path goes off on yet another of its excursions, taking you through Shiplake village. Just before the railway station is a lovely general store with really friendly staff and an eclectic selection of sweets.
A mile after Shiplake Station you are finally reunited with the river.
Walking across fields you eventually reach Thames Island and the good news is the towpath is beautifully paved, making for great walking conditions.
Coming into Henley there is a lovely park with a Wind In The Willows theme, beware this is a very popular area and the path can be congested. As a diversion there are cafés and ice cream vendors a plenty here.
Crossing the delightful Henley Bridge the path follows Singers Park, the hub for the famous Henley Royal Regatta. Obviously I would suggest avoiding this area during the regatta.
Temple Island catches the eye and it will be obvious why it has that name as it is home to a delightful Folly.
The river makes a long sweeping u-turn and just after Hambleden Lock the tarmac path disappears and soon after another diversion occurs but this one is arguably the most delightful.
Initially following a road reaching the delightfully named Flower Pot Hotel, the path bears left, briefly touching the canal before passing through the grounds of Culham House. Stunning scenery, great vistas, the highlight has to be the deer park, home to a herd of white deer.
The path continues across farmland with some woodland breaks. Hurley and Temple locks come in very quick succession and the river is crossed at Temple Lock, taking the path to the north bank.
The section from Temple to Marlow is a very popular stretch of the canal, especially at weekends and you will have to contend with cyclists and dog walkers.
As you broach a slight right hand bend the stunning Marlow Bridge will come into view – if you’ve ever been to Budapest the bridge will look familiar as it is the same design as Budapest’s Elisabeth Bridge, albeit on a slightly smaller scale. Adding to the vista is Marlow’s stunning riverside church.
No surprise there is another diversion in Marlow as the path diverts through a residential area before re-joining the Thames just before the A404 bridge.
The path follows pasture until Bourne End and another crossing of the river, this time alongside the railway.
Another mile and you reach the outskirts of Cookham, another area where riverside residents don’t welcome walkers and the path diverts through the town – be warned the signs are very subtle!!
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Eventually the path passes through an exclusive residential estate (the path is well fenced to keep the riff-raff away from the residents) before passing through some woodland and re-joining the river.
After another walk through woodland you will come to the outskirts of Maidenhead and past some very nice properties. The path eventually runs alongside a main road and about half a mile from Maidenhead Bridge there is a café, Jenners, which is a good stopping off point – nice sausage sandwiches.
Time to cross the river again and a nice paved track which shares as a road to a private estate. In places the path passes through the back garden of some very smart riverside properties, treat this area with respect.
Clear of the houses, there are some even more impressive houses on the far bank, the path is tree lined … watch out for tree roots, I nearly arse over apex when I tripped on one.
Bray Lock is the next landmark, quickly followed by the M4 motorway, so again the noise of traffic overbears the sounds of nature.
Coming down through Dorney you feel quite isolated as the line of trees both sides of the path leads to a detached feel and not many walkers will realise, to the left, they are walking parallel to the Olympic rowing course at Dorney Lake.
Once past the rowing lake there is a sharp left hand turn and Windsor Racecourse will be seen on the opposite bank.
With a sweeping bend you eventually reach the far end of the racecourse (well on the opposite side anyway) and the river makes a sharp hairpin turn – you can either be good and follow the riverbank or save 300 yards and cut the corner ….. let your conscience decide.
From here the path passes under the A332 and railway line before coming to The Brocas park, from where you have a good view of Windsor Castle.
This section of the walk ends at the Windsor / Eton Bridge.
Previous: Oxford to Reading
Next: Windsor to Putney
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