Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
River Thames: Oxford to Reading
Section Length: 41.5 miles (67 km)
Time Taken: 13 hrs 54 mins
Dates Walked: 6th , 12th , 15th & 19th September 2017
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Logistics: This section was covered in four legs.
Leg one was Oxford to Abingdon (9½ miles). Parking at Oxford Parkway station and catching a train to Oxford, the start is a few hundred yards from the station. Once at Abingdon it was a bus back to Oxford (six or seven buses an hour)
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Leg two was Abingdon to Wallingford (14 miles). This involved parking at Wallingford and catching a bus to Abingdon (direct bus half-hourly)
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Leg three was Wallingford to Pangbourne (11 miles). I parked at Pangbourne Station, a small car park. Then it was a train to Chosley (two trains an hour, rarely on time) then a bus, which is supposed to connect, to Wallingford.
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The final leg was Pangbourne to Reading (7 miles). Again parking at Pangbourne, walking to Reading then getting a train back (two trains an hour).
Resuming the walk at Osney bridge, we travel along the outer edges of Oxford City centre although, to be honest, you wouldn’t really know it was there as it is beautifully tree lined and almost semi-rural in feel.
The walk, briefly becomes urban until you reach Folly Bridge, the bridge purportedly stands next to a ford where oxen used to be driven across the river – hence the then town being named Oxford.
Once clear of Folly Bridge green again predominates with college sports grounds on the towpath side, whilst buildings on the far side represent the various college rowing clubs.
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You are under no illusion you are leaving Oxford as any evidence of urban sprawl soon disappears and the river is surrounded by verdant pasture and farmers fields.
Soon you will come to a gentle bend in the river where you will be faced by one of the most scenic locks along the entire river.
Iffley Lock, overlooked by the church of St Mary the Virgin, said to be one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in the country – I don’t know about that but it certainly presents a beautiful vista.
The peace and quiet is briefly shattered as the river passes under the busy Southern By-pass.
Again the dominant colour is green and it’s surprising to know, behind the trees, is the town of Kennington, you honestly wouldn’t know it was there, the only clue being the disappearance and appearance of occasional dog walkers.
Sandford Lock is another attractive lock and there is seating if you fancy a rest or it is home to the Kings Arms if you fancy something more substantial.
You’re very much out in the country again now, although the downside is the path is rough and ready, overgrown in places and if your legs are exposed you have stinging nettles to contend with.,
The constant view of fields is briefly broken as you pass Radley Boathouse but that is soon forgotten as the river takes a long turn to the right and it passes under the Oxford – Didcot railway line.
The path will soon shortly move away from the river as it approaches Abingdon, passing through some woodland before coming to Abbey Meadow. It’s here things become a little confusing as the signage seems to want to play hide and seek. Your natural instinct will be to want to cross Abbey Meadow, in fact you need to almost double back on yourself and cross the river at the lock.
A gentle stroll along a park will bring you to the very attractive Abingdon Bridge.
Continuing past the bridge you will have a lovely view of St Helen’s Church on the other bank, as you walk you will be taking a long, sweeping left hand turn, so you eventually end up walking in the opposite direction to that when you arrived in Abingdon.
The river will shortly dive off to the right on a long loop but the path follows a diversion across Culham Island and past Culham Lock.
Shortly the canal will, again, pass under the Oxford – Didcot railway eventually reaching the village of Clifton Hampden.
You cross the river here, be careful the road is narrow and busy, although the bridge is traffic light controlled.
You an re-join the path on the other side or stroll 200 yards down the road to the Barley Mow for lunch.
Revived, the walk initially passes through another area where the stinging nettles are doing their best to get you before opening out into open pasture.
The open pasture is good in one way but, by definition, being pasture it is used for grazing and you will be sharing the path with bovines. On the whole this isn't a major issue as they tend to be more scared of you than you are of them (although if you are walking with a dog please ensure it is on a tight leash).
There is, however, an occasional downside, as I discovered when the exit from the field was blocked by a large herd of cows who were disinclined to move out of the way for me.
After a sweeping right hand turn you cross the river at Day’s lock before taking a sharp left turn, heading towards Dorchester, although the outskirts of to be precise.
It’s here the River Thame meets its bigger brother the River Thames, although it has to be said the Thame is disappointingly narrow.
Just over half a mile after the junction the path takes another of its diversions and this one is a potentially nasty one.
The path diverts to the A407, which is one of the main routes from Oxford to Reading, unfortunately the side of the road nearest the river has no footpath so you will need to cross the busy road, then cross back at the Kingfisher Pub – you will need your wits about you here. Follow the path alongside the pub, turn right into Wharf Road and you eventually come back to the river for all of ten yards before going between back gardens
The path eventually emerges at Wallingford Road, the road has to be crossed – it is busy but there are traffic lights. As you approach Shillingford Bridge the path bears right and back down to the river.
The next section alternates between woodland and pasture.
Eventually you will reach Benson Marina, after which is Benson Weir and Lock, where you cross the river. It is then a stroll of just over a mile, alongside pasture and parkland, to Wallingford, where the path leaves the canal shortly before Wallingford Bridge.
Continue towards tow for about 100 yards before turning left into Thames Street and follow the road until you reach St Leonard’s Church where the path recommences on the left and returns to the river.
In truth, there is little to say about the next six miles as it’s very much a nondescript walk alongside fields until you reach the town of Moulsford and another foray away from the river. A path alongside a school takes you to the busy A329 but, thankfully, there is a decent footpath this time.
Follow the road through the town until you see a turning to the left towards the Beetle and Wedge public house, which is beside the river.
Passing through a small wooded area it’s soon back to open fields again until just before Goring, where you once again dart inland.
Crossing Goring Bridge the path resumes on the opposite bank and you then face the most challenging section of the entire walk.
The first mile and a half is relatively benign but a couple of hundred yards after you pass under the railway line the path bears to the left and the fun begins.
This section is in woodland, nothing unusual there, but you will soon notice you are climbing, and climbing and climbing – it’s seemingly a gentle climb but you will find, after a while your calf muscles will begin to tighten.
Of course, what goes up must also come down and it does so with a vengeance …. You approach the summit with a sense of relief only to have your hopes dashed in the cruellest of ways as you face a switchback that would not be out of place at Alton Towers, you are faces with a very steep descent, followed by an even steeper ascent taking you back to the height you were before you started descending. Indeed the climb back up is so steep the path is actually stepped for most of the ascent.
The good news is after the horrendous climb the route is generally a gentle downhill one, albeit away from the river, initially through the woods then on a private road, until reaching the B471 at Whitchurch.
Here you turn right to make the final descent into Pangbourne. Be warned as you near the bottom of the hill the road narrows and vehicles, especially larger ones, tend to be competing for the same area of real estate as pedestrians.
You will then arrive at the toll bridge crossing the river, thankfully free for walkers.
The walk continues on the other side of the river.
You will be walking across pasture and open fields until reaching Mapledurham Weir where, yet again, the path deviates, this time through a housing estate. One of the roads you walk down is Hazel Road, which normally wouldn’t merit a mention, however it happens to mark the halfway point of the Thames Path, although there isn’t actually anything to mark this momentous point.
One plus point is the path is very well signposted on this diversion – which is more than can be said in other parts of the walk.
Eventually you reach the A329 again. Go past the welcome to reading sign and you will come to an old pub that has been converted to flats just before the pub turn left and the path will cross the the railway line and descend back to the river.
This section is basically a cutting and you will be walking between the river and railway. These are several signs warning about antisocial behaviour along this stretch, so you may make new friends if you are not careful, then again maybe you want to!!!
Eventually the cutting ends, you pass a boatyard and the and again opens up as you begin the final approach into Reading.
At some point, I’m not quite sure exactly where, the path becomes part of Rivermead which is a delightful park area leading towards the town centre.
Pass under Caversham Bridge and the scenery is decidedly urban as the path goes past offices. Continue past Fry’s Island, which claims to have the only island based bowling club in the country – I’m sure there must me one on the Isle of Wight – under the very modern footbridge and the section ends at Reading Bridge.
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