Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
River Thames: Source - Lechlade
Section Length: 23 miles (37 km)
Time Taken: 7 hrs 41 mins
Dates Walked: 16th and 22nd August 2017
Logistics: This section of the walk was completed in two parts.
The first from the source to Cricklade (12.5 miles).
For this I parked at Swindon station and caught a train to Kemble (hourly service) , from where it was just over a mile and a half walk to the source of the river, unfortunately part of it means retracing the Thames Walk.
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The leg finished at Cricklade, from where I caught a bus back to Swindon (three buses an hour).
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The second part was Cricklade to Lechlade (10.5 miles).
For this I parked in Lechlade and caught two buses to Cricklade, changing at Cirencester. (random times)
Be aware, apart from the stretches on roads, most of this section is on unmade paths across fields, with uneven ground.
To be honest the source of the Thames is a complete and utter anti-climax, well it is in the summer – it may be different in winter / spring but I have no intention of going back to find out.
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For a start the “source” is in the middle of a field, in the middle of nowhere and to reach it from Kemble you actually have to follow the path in reverse for a mile and a quarter.
For most of the year the source is dried up on the surface, although there is, apparently, a water course just below the surface but we have to take the experts word for that one.
The source itself is marked by a pile of stones and a few yards away is a plinth acknowledging the location as being the source although the inscription is barely readable.
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A regular challenge along this walk is bovine as you will often have to pass through fields of cows and the first of these challenges arrives very quickly as the field next to the source houses a herd of cattle at times ….. as long as you walk slowly and don’t panic they will move out of your way.
For the first few miles the only evidence of there being a river or should I say stream is a dried up bed, although there a few stone bridges to give you some clue that you are on the right path.
I should point out, at these early stages, the path often deviates from the “course” of the river. The whole Thames Path is highlighted by posts, often showing the phrase “Thames Path” or, sometimes, just an icon of an acorn.
However, at times, it is easy to miss the signposts and you find yourself lost.
The first of these is at the pretty village of Ewen, just over two miles from the start.
This is one of the areas where the path follows roads rather than the river and the path disappears to the left without any apparent signage.
At this point I will give you one very important piece of advice, if you ignore everything else I say I implore you to heed his one – make sure you have a decent map with you as you will deviate from the path at times. I can thoroughly recommend Walking The Thames Path, published by Cicerone.
It’s actually two books in one, the first book describing the route the second covering the entire walk with 1:25,000 OS maps ….. trust me it is a lifesaver.
Four miles into the stage, after walking through farmland, you will reach the Cotswold Water Park, which will dominate the walk for the next few miles.
There is some evidence of a river, although I would call it a stream at this point.
Eventually you will reach the village of Ashton Keynes and the first semblance of a small river appears, it’s also another chance to get lost thanks to useless signage.
After Ashton Keynes the walk, again, follows the Cotswold Water Park.
Once clear of water park the path follows a disused railway line as it approaches Cricklade, after a while the path deviates to the left and the signs become confusing – basically keep left.
The path will then lead into the town of Cricklade and yet another chance to get lost as the signs either disappear or are so well hidden they are useless. If you do get lost aim for the High Street and you’ll eventually find the signs.
There are plenty of shops, pubs and cafés in Cricklade so plenty of chance to refuel.
The route out of Cricklade follows a road initially before passing along the edge of the local recreation ground. Before passing under the A419.
Once clear of the A419 the path follows the river very closely until the village of Castle Eaton where the path goes through the village. There is s pub in the village but I sat outside the village hall and munched my sandwiches.
This is another village where the signs are not helpful but the trick is to find Blackford Lane and follow it until the signs mysteriously reappear and take you back to the river. Although, in reality, you will not be following the river for long as the path, once again, deviates away.
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Eventually you will reach the village of Inglesham and it’s here things begin to get very hairy.
From Inglesham the path is alongside the A361 a very busy, fast main road with no footpath. Indeed there are official signs in Inglesham advising Thames Path walkers to either get a taxi or catch a bus the three miles to Lechlade. The problem with the latter option is buses are very few and far between.
I’ll be honest the advice is good as the walk in indeed hairy and although the overwhelming majority of drivers are considerate, some were too close for comfort.
Remember to walk facing the oncoming traffic.
About half a mile from Lechlade the path does veer off to the left to take you back to the river for a short time.
The walk concludes at Lechlade Bridge and on the other side of the bridge is a pub and seasonal café.
Next: Lechlade to Oxford
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