Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Kennet and Avon: Hungerford to Bradford On Avon
Hungerford and passes through rural scenery. The highlight of the canal, arguably the entire UK canal network, comes after Devizes where a span of 29 locks can be found in the distance of 2¼ miles, including the amazing Caen Flight, comprising 16 back to back locks. Continuing through stunning countryside, this section ends at the beautiful canal town of Bradford on Avon.
Section Length: 38.72 miles (62.31 km)
Time Taken: 12 hrs 45 mins
Dates Walked: 1st, 8th, 14th and 17th May 2018
Logistics: This section of the walk was completed in four parts.
The first from Hungerford to Bedwyn (5 miles). For this I parked in Bedwyn, near the church and caught a train to Hungerford (one train an hour).
The second part was Bedwyn to Pewsey (9.11 miles). For this I parked in Pewsey Wharf, walked to Pewsey station and caught a train to Bedwyn, via Newbury (very intermittent service, 2-3 services a day), with a very tight connection.
Leg three was Pewsey to Devizes (12.31 miles), parking in Devizes and then catching a bus to Pewsey(two hourly service)
The final leg was Devizes to Bradford on Avon (12.28 miles). Here I parked in Bradford on Avon and caught a bus to Devizes, via Trowbridge.
For people who know the town of Hungerford and its famous bridge they may be in for quite a shock when they see the bridge from canal level as it is nothing like what one would expect.
A busy, narrow, road bridge from above, from canal level it looks gentle and quiet, with only the passing traffic and pedestrians giving away how busy it is.
Passing under the bridge you are faced by a row of pretty cottages before the canal heads past the church and out into open country.
Locks appear quite regularly along this stretch and shortly after leaving the town you will reach lock 73, where boaters have to be careful as a swing bridge passes over the canal. Boaters who ignore the bridge could find themselves in deep trouble. or should that be deep water. The reason this strange situation applies is the local land owner, at the time, refused permission for a path and the bridge is the only means of crossing the canal at the lock.
After the delightfully named Cobblers lock the railway line crosses the canal and for the next few miles the canal and railway stick close together as if there was some magic attraction. Luckily this isn't too much of a distraction as the line isn't heavily used with around four passenger trains an hour passing by, with the occasional freight train thrown in for good measure.
There are three locks in close proximity at Froxfield with the top lock, also known as Oakhill Down lock, having a handy bench, useful for a stop if you have a packed lunch.
Another mile through open countryside and you reach Little Bedwyn, virtually a hamlet, with its spired church visible on the opposite bank.
This is followed by a pleasant walk to the larger Great Bedwyn, with a railway station, wharf and impressive canal side church. There is a delightful village store, about a 10 minute walk from the canal.
Leaving Bedwyn you have another excellent view of the church on the opposite side of the canal.
The towpath from here on can be challenging as it is basically a grassy path.
Therefore if it has been very wet then conditions underfoot can get quite boggy.
Conversely, like the day I walked this route, if it is very dry the ground becomes very uneven making walking difficult at times. The ideal walking conditions would be somewhere in between, with some slight give in the ground.
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The scenery along this stretch is generally open countryside with a few scattered villages.
About a mile and a half outside Bedwyn you will pass Crofton pumping station, home of the oldest working beam engine still performing the task it was created for back in 1845. Open days are held various weekends throughout the year. There is also a cafe here if you get parched.
Locks come thick and fast in this section with Crofton Top Lock being the beginning of the highest stretch of the canal.
About a mile after the lock you reach a rarity on this canal, a tunnel. Indeed the only tunnel on the canal and it's 502 yards long.
The towpath by-passes the tunnel and the walker has a relatively steep climb to proceed, whilst at the other end a series of steps take the walker down and under the railway (beware if you're over 5' 10" as headroom is limited) and then back to the canal itself.
From here the canal passes through a pleasant cutting, giving some shade and respite on a hot day, before once again opening out at Burbage Wharf.
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Passing Wootton Rivers you will notice the locks now begin going downhill as you continue the gentle walk to Pewsey Wharf
Pewsey Wharf is actually a good three-quarters of a mile from the village but it does benefit from a canal side pub.
The stretch from Pewsey to Devizes is quite an oddity on the canal as it's a 12½ mile stretch without a single lock but there is still plenty to see.
This is also the most winding stretch of the canal, illustrated by comparing the 12½ miles of canal between Pewsey and Devizes, whereas it's only 9 miles as the crow flies.
The countryside is generally open but some beautiful hills and villages dominate the horizon and on a sunny day the views are amazing. For a change of perspective the towpath switches to the north bank of the canal just before the village of Wilcot but after just over two miles it crosses back to the more usual south bank.
One of the famous Wiltshire White Horse carvings will come into view on the opposite side.
You pass a few villages and some canal side pubs along this stretch but otherwise the view is much of a muchness, albeit stunningly beautiful in places.
As you approach Devizes the scenery begins to switch from rural to urban and for nosey Parkers you get to see some lovely back gardens. the canal takes a sharp right hand turn before passing under the London Road bridge and the towpath becomes paved and elevated leading into Devizes town centre.
Devizes wharf is home to a waterways exhibition and a tea shop, with the town centre a five minute walk away if you want to stock up with supplies
Leaving Devizes you come to one of the most technically stunning sections of any canal in the country, if not the world.
Having walked 12½ miles without seeing a single lock you come to the first of 29 locks within a couple of miles, including the infamous Caen flight of 16 back to back locks.
Approaching the flight from Devizes it doesn't look to be that impressive, but be patient because when you reach the bottom of the flight, reach Marsh Land Bridge, then turn round ........ you can look back and the vista in front of you is absolutely awe inspiring.
Indeed anything after that is going to be something of an anticlimax.
Don't be disheartened however as the canal continues through some delightful countryside, with the added bonus of a reasonably decent towpath.
Passing through the outskirts of Trowbridge the canal has two aqueducts before passing through countryside again, on the approach to Bradford on Avon.
The term "picture postcard" is an oft used cliché when describing Cotswold towns and villages but the epithet suits Bradford on Avon perfectly.
The area alongside the canal is pretty enough but don't pass the town itself by.
It's an uphill walk of just over half a mile to the town centre but it is worth every step. Just explore the narrow streets, beware the pavements are incredibly narrow in places, the quaint shops and tea rooms and enjoy the architectural splendour of this beautiful town.
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Next Bradford on Avon to Bristol
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