Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Islands: Skomer
Normally an island measuring just 2 miles my 1½ miles wouldn’t even warrant a second glance but Skomer is a wildlife haven.
Situated off the Pembrokeshire coast the island is home to the largest colony of Manx shearwaters in the world but it’s the colony of puffins, the largest in the southern United Kingdom, which draws visitors in their thousands.
Going back to the shearwaters, there are believed to be around 310,000 breeding pairs on the island with a further 40,000 pairs on the neighbouring island of Skokholm – between them accounting for over half the worlds population.
However seeing the birds is very difficult as they live in underground burrows, spending the day at sea and only returning to the island after dusk, when most visitors have departed.
As I said the puffins are the biggest attraction, arriving mid-April with the last of the puffins departing by late July.
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Getting There
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Due to the ecosystem on the island visitor numbers are strictly limited with only 250 visitors allowed each day, furthermore it’s not possible to pre-book a visit so it’s strictly on a first come first served basis.
The outbound 10 minute boat trips begin at 10:00 and end at midday. They are initially scheduled at hourly intervals but if demand is high then the sailings are half hourly, with each sailing taking up to 50 passengers.
You will have five hours on the island and you have to return on your allocated boat. So, for example, if you sail out on the 10:00 boat you will return on the 15:00, if you travel on the 11:30 you return at 16:30.
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As I said tickets are issued on a first come first served basis, with the ticket office at Lockley Lodge at Martin’s Haven The ticket office officially opens at 08:30 but if you arrive then you will probably be too late.
The day I visited, for example, I arrived at Lockley Lodge at 07:00 and there was already a large queue and by the time I reached the front of the queue two sailings were already full.
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On busy days the boat will take 50 passengers at a time and it is extremely cramped, luckily the crossing is only 10 minutes.
Unless you are a member of The Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales you will have to pay a landing charge of £11 per adult and £5 a child. In addition all visitors have to pay a boat fee of £11 for adults and £7 a child. So you’re talking £22 a head for adults and £12 a child.
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On arrival at the island there are 87 steep steps which need to be climbed, so you need to be relatively fit. On arrival you also have to attend a mandatory briefing from one of the rangers.
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There are very limited toilet facilities in the centre of the island and there is no café, so it is essential to bring sufficient food and drink to keep you going, as there is a lot of walking. You can buy water on the island but it is eye wateringly expensive at £2.50 a bottle.
It is important to wear proper clothing as you will be exposed to the elements and if the weather turns bad there is very limited shelter.
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What To Do
Most visitors head straight to Wick on the island where most of the puffins are to be found but I find its better to visit the remainder of the island first and leave the puffins at Wick until last as, later in the day, most viewers have got bored and it is relatively quieter.
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My recommended route is to walk from the landing area to Old Farm in the centre, this is where the shelter and toilets are to be found.
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From there head north towards the Garland Stone and follow the cliff path round to the eastern most point at Pigstone Bay, where you may see porpoises frolicking – this is a good place to stop for lunch.
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Continue along the south of the island to Wick and the puffins.
From there you have two options the easier, less strenuous route heads back to the centre and Old Farm from where you can retrace your steps to the landing stage.
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The alternate route follows the edge of the island but is very hilly and uneven, however you will be rewarded with some stunning views as well as passing some more isolated puffin colonies. You may also get to see some grey seals in South Haven.
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Staying On The Island
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It is possible to stay on the island, where there is basic accommodation. This gives visitors the chance to see the shearwaters return as well as beautiful astronomical views on clear nights.
Details can be found on the islands web site.
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https://www.welshwildlife.org/overnight-accommodation-on-skomer/
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