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Old Moaner Travel

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list

Tel Aviv / Jaffa

Tel Aviv is certainly Israels most lively and modern city where the golden sand beach is the main attraction.

It is home to the best examples of Bauhaus architecture, an early 20th-century Modernist style of building, so much so the examples have attained UNESCO World Heritage status.

By contrast, Jaffa, located just south of the city has been used as a port for thousands of years.

 

Getting Around

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 The tourist areas are relatively compact and a walkway links all the beaches and Jaffa.

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There is an extensive bus network in the city. The standard bus fare in the central area is 5.90 NIS (£1.33) for a single trip, however cash is not accepted and you will need to use a prepaid Rav Kav card. If travelling to the northern suburbs the fare is 9.30 NIS (£2.08)

If there are 3-4 of you a taxi may be a cheaper option.

 

What To Do  

Undoubtedly the beaches are the biggest attractions in Tel Aviv, attracting tourists and locals alike.

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On weekends, Tel Aviv's strips of sand are crowded with sun-worshippers, posers and people just chilling out, mid-week they are more comfortable with just the tourists chilling out 

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The most popular beaches are centrally-located Gordon Beach, Frishman Beach, and Banana Beach where you'll find excellent facilities such as fresh-water showers, sun loungers and sunshades for rent.

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The Tayelet boardwalk runs along the beach between central Tel Aviv and Jaffa is very popular in the cooler evenings  and offers spectacular sunset views. It is lined with plenty of cafés and restaurants. 

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A short 2 km (1.2 mile) walk south along the coast from downtown Tel Aviv brings you to the old Arab port town of Jaffa, with its preserved acropolis remains and well-restored stone architecture, providing a complete contrast to the modernity of Tel Aviv.

 

Much of the original bazaar area is now home to restaurants and artisan boutiques.

It's particularly lively in the evening when the old town throngs with diners. There are some amazing authentic restaurants in this area. There was one authentic Indian restaurant (sadly now closed since the owner passed away) which is the best I have ever eaten in - so good we actually made a day trip from the UK to eat there, Flying out from the UK in the morning and flying back to the UK shortly after midnight - it took some explaining to the Israeli security services though.

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The flea market here is the major attraction for visitors, full of the hubbub of a genuine souk.

St. Peter's Monastery and, more so,  the Old Port area itself are also not to be missed.

 

Compared to the big-city hustle of Tel Aviv, Jaffa is a wonderfully tranquil place for a stroll that, despite serious gentrification, still retains its old-fashioned charm.

Returning to Tel Aviv itself, Dizengoff Circle is the central square within the city.

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Laid out on two levels with a raised area for pedestrians above the carriageway the centrepiece is the colourful modern-art Fire and Water Fountain, designed by Israeli artist Yaacov Agam.

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The sculpture regularly comes alive rotating and giving a show with fountains of water and flames - well worth watching.

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The plaza and the street running off it are named after Meir Dizengoff, Tel Aviv's first mayor after the city separated from Jaffa.

 

From the circle, Dizengoff Street leads to Habima Square, Tel Aviv's cultural centre and home to the Habima Theater.

 

This is also where you'll find the excellent Helena Rubinstein Pavilion of Contemporary Art.

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The Yemenite Quarter is full of meandering alleyways lined by old-style architecture that has withstood the area's gentrification.

First settled by Yemenite Jews in the early 20th century, and the original feel of the closely-packed streets is still very much unchanged from its inception a century ago. 

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The neighbourhood backs onto Carmel Market - busy, colourful and full of fresh produce. One thing that you will find in abundance in Israel is fresh fruit and vegetables - Israelies love them and they seem obsessed with salads - expect to be served a salad with every meal, including breakfast. 

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If you're hungry in Tel Aviv and want a cheap meal, this is the place to head.

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The Neve Tzedek Quarter is the city's oldest neighbourhood, with European-Jewish settlers first building houses here in the 1880s.

The old buildings have been well preserved, and many now house arty boutiques, cafés, and some of the city's trendiest restaurants.

In the district's southwest corner is the old Ottoman railway station called the HaTachana, which has been restored and reopened as a stylish complex of cafés, restaurants, and designer boutiques. 

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In the city centre Rothschild Boulevard is home to some of finest Bauhaus architecture and is a great place for a stroll.

 

The street houses two museums, Independence Hall (Beit Dizengoff) is the former residence of Tel Aviv's first mayor and is where David Ben-Gurion proclaimed the state of Israel on May 14th, 1948. Inside, a display of mementos from this event is exhibited.

Further along the road is the house once occupied by Haganah Commander Eliyahu Golomb, now home to the Haganah Museum, which documents the Haganah guerrilla force that actively attacked British Mandate rule. There are weaponry exhibits and information on the Haganah's activities inside.

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Back to Israel home page 

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