Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Northern Italy
Cinque Terre
​
Overview
​
The Cinque Terre or “Five Earths” are a string of five glorious coastal villages near La Spezia contained a national park of the same name, which is, unsurprisingly, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
​
The villages and rugged coastline are stunningly beautiful, unfortunately the beauty is no secret so you will never have the place to yourself.
Indeed during high season the area is becoming so popular the authorities are looking at ways of restricting visitor numbers.
On the plus side, which in a perverse stops the visitor numbers being even higher access to the villages by car ranges from extremely difficult to impossible.
​
Most visitors arrive by train with all five villages served by a shuttle service running between La Spezia and Levanto both of which have more than adequate parking provision – more on the train service later.
All five villages have their own character and differ from one another.
Monterosso, the westernmost and largest of the villages and, in truth, probably the least attractive but that is still a relative judgement.
​
Monterosso is the only one of the five to have what could best be described as a proper beach and is therefore popular with families. It also has the majority of the hotels in the Cinque Terre, although the average cost of a 3* hotel is an eye-watering £130 a night.
The town is divided into the Old and New parts with a tunnel separating the two and it is the old town which is more attractive with narrow streets and typical painted house.
The new part, known as Fegina is more lively and a typical resort town.
Next along the route Vernazza, which may say is the most attractive of the five although I would say it vies for top spot with two of the others – indeed many claim this is the most attractive town in Italy.
​
Vernazza is a fishing village reached by a narrow street leading to the harbour. A few boats are found in the harbour but, unsurprisingly, the harbour is surrounded by eateries and souvenir shops – as is the road leading to the harbour.
​
Looking up from the harbour you see terraces growing various trees along with houses seemingly defying gravity hanging onto the side of the hills.
Next up is Corniglia, the most inaccessible of the five and the only one with no direct access to the sea.
​
The village is perched on a cape, 100 m above the sea, and is reached by a claim of 375 stairs from the towns station. There is a shuttle bus from the station to the town if you don't fancy the climb, although the steps are quite gentle and not as bad as they sound.
​
It is also the smallest of the towns. Once there the main area is traffic free with narrow lanes and pleasant squares. There are a number of gift shops, cafes and bars.
Eventually you reach a dead end but are rewarded with a stunning view along the coast, especially of Manarola.
Manarola is probably the most recognisable of the villages , when a single picture of the Cinque Terre appears it is, more often or not, the iconic picture of Manarola that appears.
​
Search for a jigsaw and, invariably, the picture will be of Manarola.
The harbour is surrounded by terraces with multi-coloured houses, a small piazza is home to seafood restaurants and boats are “parked” alongside the harbour.
There are narrow, hilly streets to explore.
The southernmost village Is Riomaggiore, effectively a town divided in two. On one side a steep, hilly main street, seemingly dominated by holiday lets – undoubtedly very expensive.
​
Pass through a tunnel and you reach the small picturesque harbour.
Getting Around
As previously mentioned you can forget getting there by car. use public transport or shanks pony.
Theoretically there is a coastal path linking all five villages. I say theoretically because, due to extensive weather damage, some stretches are closed until 2021. There are other inland paths which can be used. Most of the main coastal path, along with the more popular other ones are toll paths – you need to purchase a Cinque Terre card at the cost of €7.50.
For €13 off peak season, €16 peak season you can purchase a Cinque Terre card which includes unlimited rail travel between La Spezia and Levanto, excellent value if hopping between the villages …. A singe journey between each village is €4 otherwise.
Milan
Getting There
Getting to Milan is not that difficult, especially by air, as it is served by no fewer than three international airports.
ï·¯Malpensa is the main international airport with 22 million passengers a year, making it the second busiest airport in Italy, after Fiumicino in Rome.
​
However it is located away from the city, 25 miles (40km) to the north of the city.
Express trains leave the airport to the city every 20 – 40 minutes, with slower trains every 15 minutes, with the journey taking 50 minutes and costing €13 one way.
Buses operate between 04:00 and 23:00 daily, operating every 20 minutes and taking around an hour to reach the city. Fares are €8 single €14 return.
Taxi transfers take around 50 minutes and are charged at a flat rate of an eye-watering €95.
​
Linate airport is the closest to the city, only 5 miles (8km) from the centre but it is also the least busy with only 9.5 million passengers a year. It is the base for national carrier Alitalia and welcomes domestic and some EU flights.
There is no rail link to Linate but several bus services operate with a fare of around €5 each way. There are no fixed prices for taxis and a journey to the city centre will cost between €30 - €40.
Bergamo is the third airport and is almost as far from the city as Malpensa, 30 miles (45km) away and it the base for the low cost / budget airlines.
The main transfer option is by bus with frequent services to the city costing from around €4 each way.
There is no station at the airport but if you fancy a convoluted journey you can catch a bus to the town of Bergamo and get a train from there.
A taxi will cost over €100.
If travelling by train Milan is on the European high-speed network, with connections across Europe and within Italy. For example, you can reach Venice in two hours and Rome in three.
As an added bonus Milan’s Central Station is a stunning station reminiscent of New York’s Grand Central.
Travelling by car Milan is on the motorway network.
Getting Around
​
Like most Italian cities I would not recommend driving in Milan.
​
Fortunately Milan does have a very good public transport system with an extensive metro, bus and tram network, all reasonably priced.
The City
​
Milan is, of course, synonymous with high fashion and fashionistas will not be disappointed as all the big names will be found here, as well as names that are not so well known. British visitors can forget about finding the likes of M&S or Primark here in Milan.
If you want a mega-hit of fashion houses the place to start will be Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany – they’re all here under one ornate roof.
​
They are the sort of shops where, if you have to ask the price you probably cannot afford it. Where the prices are on display they will make your eyes pop – who, in their right mind, would pay €17,000 for a handbag?
​
With no M&S or Primark I'm not sure they can call it a fashion centre.
Next door to the Galleria is Milan’s most iconic landmark, the magnificent Duomo or Cathedral.
​
Big, brash and incredibly ornate it is one impressive building. However, it is also incredibly popular.
The square in front of the Duomo is rammed, almost to the point of being uncomfortable, with tourists, hawkers, beggars and pickpockets.
To go inside the Cathedral expect to queue for a long time or pay even extra for a fast track entry.
Personally, I refuse on principle to pay to visit a church. The wealth of the Catholic Church is greater than many nations, yet they still fleece the public to enter their churches. (The Church of England are the same in the UK so I’m not just picking on the Catholic Church, although its hypocrisy is truly appalling)
Nearby was the biggest disappointment for me. La Scala must be the most famous Opera House in the world and I was expecting this really ornate building – externally it is nothing of the sort, very square and nondescript. So much so, I almost walked past and missed it, it was only the billboard full of famous operas that caught my eye and made me realise this was the infamous building.
​
At Santa Maria delle Grazie you can see the original of Da Vinci’s, The Last Supper.
​
The Navigli district is where most of the city’s canals are located. The area has undergone a regeneration in recent years and is home to bars, restaurants and cafes which are relatively quiet midweek but heaving weekends and holidays.
Stroll through the Isola district and you will find some amazing street art.
​
If you want to do something very different how about a brunch or dinner tram trip? Two vintage trams have been converted into mobile restaurants giving a 2½ hour sightseeing tour of the city by tram whilst you eat. Obviously numbers are limited, there are only 4 tables of four and 4 fable of two on each tram and they get booked very quickly Cost is €70 a head and the food is basic, although you do get four courses.
Genoa
​
Getting There
​
Christoforo Colombo airport is only 3½ miles (6km) outside the city and is connected to the city with a regular bus service.
​
The Volabus operates throughout the day and provides a direct link to the Principe and Brignole railway stations. Operated as a coach it is an express service with plenty of storage space for luggage. A one way trip costs €6.
There is a free transfer bus to / from the airport and Principe station, however it is a small “standard” bus with no space to store luggage. It also stops at all stops along the way and is used by locals – it is slow, uncomfortable and I would not recommend it at all.
Taxis operate to the city with a fixed fare system of €7 - €8 per person, with a minimum charge of three people, so worthwhile if three or more travelling, less so if only one or two.
Getting Around
​
Genoa has a single line metro service and a comprehensive bus service
​
The City
Genoa is the capital of the Liguria region and is best explored on foot.
​
The medieval centre is the largest in Europe thanks to Genoa’s location as a strategic commercial port. It’s a maze of alleyways with hidden gems tucked away.
It is generally safe during the day although certain areas are probably best avoided at night.
One downside is the “ladies of the night” also tend to ply their trade during the day as well.
The Strada Nuova Museums on Via Garibaldi are magnificent former palaces now converted into art galleries and holding UNESCO heritage status. Even if you are not into are galleries the buildings themselves are stunning.
​
Genoa is purportedly the home of pesto and the sauce features heavily in the local cuisine.
​
Surrounded by hills there are some stunning views to be had …… the good news is most of the hills have public lifts or funiculars to help you reach the top and save your legs.
​
Porto Antico is the city’s harbour and where the cruise ships dock, so you can see these mega vessels up close. Like many dockland areas around the world the area has been regenerated and is home to many attractions and eateries.
It even has a pirate ship to explore or, if you’re not claustrophobic, you can visit the inside of a submarine.
​
The Aquarium is a major attraction in the port area, although admission isn’t exactly wallet or purse friendly.
Finally in the port area there is La Biosfera, a dome shaped greenhouse designed by Renzo Piano.
Nearby is the delightful town of Portofino but beware it is a tourist trap.
A small harbour which attracts the high rollers, beautifully coloured buildings the town is home to some high end shops and very expensive restaurants it also attracts zillions of visitors in the summer so it is not comfortable.
​
When I say Portofino is expensive I mean expensive, even the more basic café will charge €8 for a coffee or if you want something stronger like a gin and tonic don’t expect much change, if any, from a €20 note.
Having said that the town is beautiful, especially out of season when it is not so crowded.
Follow the signs to the castle and lighthouse and you will climb the hill opposite the harbour and be treated to some stunning views of the town.
Half way up is the church, which is home to a typical Italian cemetery with family vaults and most of the graves adorned with photos of the departed resident.
It is possible to drive to Portofino but there is only one road and parking is limited.
​
Boat trips operate from Genoa from late March through to October and, as a bonus, most make a stop at San Fruttuoso, an isolated cove and village inaccessible by any other means.
Alternatively take the scenic railway journey from Genoa to San Margherita La Portofino then either catch a bus or ferry to Portofino.
​
Boat trips are also available from Genoa to Cinque Terre in season at a cost of €21 single or €38 return.
​
Venice
​
Venice is certainly on the list of the worlds greatest cities and justifiably so. The downside is the place has become so popular it is in danger of being ruined.
There is also concern in the city about the number of cruise liners visiting, although I have to confess the view when sailing in / out of the city on a cruise ship is absolutely stunning.
Getting There
Marco Polo airport is where most visitors arrive and it is located about four miles north of the city.
There is no direct rail link to the city but coach services operate to and from the main bus station and the railway network.
Buses operate every 20 minutes and the journey takes 20 minutes.
A taxi to the edge of Venice costs around €40
​
If you have the time, it takes around 60-70 minutes, the water bus is a great way to reach the city and stops at most of the major city locations. The cost is €15 in advance or €16 if purchased onboard.
Getting Around
It should go without saying that a car is absolutely useless in most of Venice. On the main island cars have to be parked at the Tronchetto Parking area, just after crossing the bridge.
The Lido and Sant Erasmo have some roads but they are more for locals than tourists.
Venice island is best explored on foot, as are Murano and Burano.
An extensive water bus service links the various islands as well as serving all the tourist spots in Venice island itself.
These buses are not cheap, a single trip, valid for 75 minutes, costs €7.50, although they are frequent.
If you plan to travel on the buses for a few days then daily tickets are better value. A one day ticket costs €20, two days for €30, three days for €40 or €60 for a week.
What to see
Where do I begin?
Actually I’ll begin with a couple of the outer islands.
Murano is famed for it’s glass and several factories and outlet shops are open to the public. The glass is expensive but is good quality and even window shopping is an experience with some stunning pieces of work.
​
Even if not into glass Murano is a beautiful island with brightly coloured buildings.
​
Burano also has brightly coloured houses, even brighter than Murano, although without the glass works.
The Lido is a long skinny island, without the attractions of Venice itself but is home to a sandy beach.
One big advantage of the Lido is it has a large number of restaurants and their prices are generally half the price of equivalent ones in Venice itself and the 20 minute water bus ride from Venice to the Lido is a great way to chill before and after dinner.
There are even some very decent restaurants within walking distance of the bus terminal if you don’t fancy venturing too far when you get there.
That’s the outliers sorted, lets come to the main area Venice itself.
As I said an incredibly popular holiday destination, it is also very expensive, so don’t bank on a cheap break here.
If you’re on a budget consider staying outside the city and travelling in each day.
St Marks Square is the heart of the city and a major tourist magnet. It is, of course, home to St Marks Basilica, a truly stunning church with some amazing frescos on its façade.
As well known as the Basilica is the famous brick bell tower.
Two sides if the square are lined by shops and many cafes and if you love people watching sit outside one of the cafes. Be warned they are eye wateringly expensive but worth the money to be served by elegantly dressed waiters and entertained by live musicians.
The Grand Canal is the ‘high street” of Venice although not like any other High Street, it’s busy like most main routes, although the traffic here is all on the water, with a mix of water buses, water taxis, private boats and, of course, the ubiquitous gondolas. Again these are not cheap but come at a fixed price, so you know how much you will pay.
​
A 25 – 30 minute daytime trip will set you back €80, with the price increasing to €120 at night – as I said expensive but, in my, view worth every penny – if you’re lucky your Gondolier may even sing for you.
One of the major attractions along the Grand Canal, indeed in the whole of Venice, is the Rialto Bridge, or the Bridge of Sighs. The trouble with it being so popular is it gets very crowded with crowds three to four deep along the sides most of the time.
There are some restaurants with terraces alongside the canal as you approach the bridge and although expensive, €25 for two cups of tea and a croissant, the views are stunning and you are not rushed.
Most of the shops are away from the Grand Canal and a general rule of thumb is the further away from the Grand Canal the (relatively) cheaper the shops are.
There are loads of tiny piazzas around the city and my advice would be to get on shanks pony and explore on foot ….. at the end of the day you’re on a small island and can’t really get lost.
The Teatro La Fenice looks pretty impressive from the outside, inside it is absolutely stunning and dripping with gold and well worth a visit.
There are lots of churches to explore, including one with a tower that makes the Leaning Tower of Pisa look stunningly straight.
Walk along another canal and you will discover what is effectively a garage for gondolas.
If you fancy some green space then head for the Giardini Della Biennale, whilst the Arsenale is home to military and naval museums.
There is also a park near the waterbus stops at St Mark’s and here you will find a number of souvenir stalls whose prices are actually quite reasonable.
​
​