Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Normandy
I will have to fess up and admit Normandy is my favourite region in France so there may be some rose coloured spectacles involved in this section but that’s no big deal, it’s my web site and I will write what I want.
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Normandy is handy because of its accessibility from the UK with several daily crossings from the UK to the region.
Cherbourg, Caen (Ouistreham), Le Harve and Dieppe all have regular services from Poole, Portsmouth and Newhaven.
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So what is there to see, well plenty and I'll be honest and say the selections will be entirely random.
I'll start by exploring the coast and Cherbourg peninsular before looking at the inland attractions.
Mont St Michel has to be seen to be believed, Sitting on an island linked to the mainland by a causeway which floods at high spring tides, the Abbey can be seen from miles around.
You used to be able to park next to the island, as seen in the attached photograph. However visitors are no longer allowed that close to the island and a park and ride scheme is in operation. Parking is €14.20 high season €9.10 low season plus a charge of €3 per person, each way on the shuttle bus. If you don't want to pay for the shuttle it is about a mile and a half walk to the island - not accessible during the highest spring tides, approx 110 hours a year.
If you are staying on a hotel on the island you can park closer - ask your hotel for an access code.
The lower levels of the island are given over to hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops set along narrow, winding, climbing streets.
The island is famed for the La Mère Poulard Omelette, an omelette soufflé which has to be seen to be believed - however this speciality comes at a price, a huge price. You're talking an absolute minimum of €28 a head, increasing to €48 for a more luxurious version. I have to confess I have never tried one because I refuse to pay that money for what, basically, is a few eggs.
The Abbey is impressive and stunning and well worth a visit. Admission is €10 (€8 concessions) but slots must be booked in advance.
When the tide is low it is possible to walk round the island, however the tide comes in very fast and it is very easy to get cut off, so check the tide times before venturing out.
Across the bay is the quaint town of Avranches , situated atop a hill offering views of the Mont from Jardin de Plantes.
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The towns museum holds a stunning collection of medieval sculptures if that sort of thing floats your boat.
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The Cherbourg peninsular, especially the western side is littered with delightful small ports and resorts.
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Granville is a nice town for an overnight stopover, nothing too brash or touristy but some nice seafood restaurants.
The town of Coutances would not get a mention if it were not for its incongruous cathedral sitting atop a hill overlooking the town. It is massive and looks totally out of place.
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By contrast the church at Lessay is plain and dull but it dates back to 1098. Almost totally destroyed in 1944 it has been lovingly restored. It is fair to say Lessay is a sleepy backwater, which is no bad thing. That all changes the second week in September when thousands descent for its laid back Foire de Ste-Croix festival.
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Atop the peninsular is the town after which it is named, Cherbourg. it is excellent as an arrival / departure destination but that's about it. Dull and boring both in looks and atmosphere the town has few, if any, redeeming features.
Moving down the east coast of the peninsular you come to some of the most significant beaches in the history of the 20th century.
The D-Day landings of 6th June 1944 was a major turning point in World War 2 and the beaches of Normandy saw a massive landing of troops, which came with an horrific death toll.
Starting at Utah Beach, stretching through Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword beaches before reaching Pegasus Bridge.
Looking at the beaches today it is hard to imagine the carnage of June 1944.
The beaches are very much a place of pilgrimage.
There are well signposted routes taking in the beaches.
A legacy of those events are numerous cemeteries, some small others overwhelmingly huge and awe inspiring ..... the graves still meticulously maintained.
Walking round these cemeteries really hammers home the price of war. The most sobering aspect is the age of the soldiers who died, many in their late teens or twenties - a generation decimated.
Most of the beaches look like any other beach you may find elsewhere in the world but the beach at Arromanches retains a legacy of the invasion.
Remains of some of the artificial harbours, known as Mulberry Harbours, which were shipped across the channel by tugs to provide a landing base, still remain on the beach.
They serve not only as a chilling reminder of the dark days of way but are an enduring monument to the engineering ingenuity and planning that went into the invasion.
All the more impressive is how they managed to keep the whole thing a secret during the build up.
Needless to say there are many museums, large and small, telling the story of the invasion.
Pegasus Bridge, where the invasion began the previous night marks the end of the D-Day beaches tour.
The bridge has been rebuilt, now a lifting bridge over the canal.
There is a café come museum telling the story of the attack on the bridge.
I would like to recommend visiting it but in all conscience I cannot. It is owned by the most unfriendly, unwelcoming, surly ignorant people you could wish to meet.
Photography is strictly prohibited and the Rottweiler owner will be on to you if you so much as dare get a camera out. Certainly a classic case of the wrong person in the wrong job.
Around midway along the beaches route you will find Bayeux, a pretty town with, of course a D-Day museum and it is also home to a large British cemetery.
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However its main claim to fame is its eponymous Tapestry - it's reported visitors to the tapestry account for 33% of the towns income.
Bayeux serves as a good base for those visiting the D-Day beaches.
There is a pleasant Botanic Garden, where the highlight is a massive weeping beech tree, some 40 feet in diameter.
I mentioned Arromanches earlier as being a great place to visit - however if there I strongly advise against visiting the ice cream van who trades on the beach - not unless you want to spend most of the following 12 hours visiting the smallest room.
If you're looking to spend a few days exploring all of Normandy then Caen could be an ideal base, being almost equidistant from Mont St Michel, Cherbourg and Rouen.
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It is a pleasant town in its own right with a compact central area, a chateau that belonged to William the Conqueror and two magnificent abbeys.
It has a pretty harbour as well, even though its quite a few miles inland from the coast.
The city was almost destroyed in WW2 but has been painstakingly and lovingly restored.
The Rue St Pierre is the main shopping drag but venture off and you will find some interesting arcades.
Pootle along the coast and you arrive at the main coastal area with the resorts of Cabourg, Dives-sur-Mer, Touques and the big two of Trouville and Deauville.
Elegance, golden beaches, boardwalks, casinos and horse racing the area attracts well heeled visitors not only from France but internationally. Not quite as chic as the Riviera it is classy nonetheless.
The port of Honfleur is often described as the most beautiful port in France and it is easy to see why. The harbour is surrounded by cobbled streets with half timbered and slate fronted houses.
Le Vieux Bassin is the main harbour area (still a working fishing port) is the heart of the town with many restaurants and cafés lining it. From the basin narrow, atmospheric streets lead away.
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The Eglise Ste-Catherine is the largest wooden church in France and is fascinating to visit.
Honfleur stands on one side of the Seine Estuary whilst, opposite is the port of Le Havre, like Cherbourg one of those bland, uninteresting Channel ports whose best view is in the rear view mirror as you drive away from the place.
The coast, dotted with small resorts, continues to yet another bland port Dieppe.
Moving inland now and due to its climate Normandy is not a renown wine growing region but it is famous for its apples, so is home to the French cider industry and if you want your apples slightly stronger than cider there is always calvados, a fortified drink described as being like an apple brandy.
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As well as apples the region has a strong dairy tradition and that means cheese with many local varieties the two most famous being Camembert and Livarot both based on the respective towns with the same names.
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Both towns have working dairies where you can see the cheese being made with, of course, the opportunity to sample and buy.
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Rouen is the main city in Normandy, forever associated with Joan of Arc, as it was in the city she was burned at the stake in 1431.
The city spans the River Sein and is the furthest point large ships, including small cruise ship, can sail from Le Havre.
The cities magnificent Gothic Cathedral took over 400 years to build, indeed it was under construction whilst Joan burned, and it has the most magnificent façade. Equally magnificent is the Rose Window dating back to the 13th century.
Another attraction is the Gros Horloge or great clock shows the time and phases of the moon.
Southeast of Rouen is the small town of Giverny, which would barely warrant a mention in any guide to Normandy.
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However the towns most famous resident has put this small town very firmly on the tourist map - the resident, of course is the impressionist painter Claude Monet.
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Having mentioned the cathedral in Rouen, Monet was quite obsessed with the façade, painting it now fewer than 30 times - on canvas that is, not the actual building itself.
He is more well known though for paintings of his garden, with the water lilies and Japanese style bridges and the gardens have been lovingly retained as they were in Monets day.
It is quite surreal standing in the same spot as Monet and actually seeing his pictures come to life.
It has to be said, even without the Monet connection, the gardens would be well worth a visit
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