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Old City Jerusalem

Old Moaner Travel

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list

Jerusalem

Where do you begin with Jerusalem?

It's the most fought after city in the world and a significant location for the worlds three great monotheistic religions, Christianity, Islam and Judaism (alphabetical order chosen lest anyone accuses me of some kind of bias)

 

For Jews it is the location the first temple, for Muslims it is where the Prophet ascended into heaven and for Christians it is the location of Christs crucifixion, resurrection and ascension.   

For believers Jerusalem is one of the most sacred sites in the world, for the rest of us it is an intriguing, interesting city where you cannot ignore its history and significance.

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You may hear some locals refer to Jerusalem as J-Town.

 

Getting Around

 

Jerusalem has an extensive bus network, especially in the city itself where several routes link the main tourist areas before spreading out to the various suburbs. 

 

The standard bus fare in Jerusalem is 5.90 NIS (£1.33) for a single trip, however cash is not accepted and you will need to use a prepaid Rav Kav card.

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Since 2011 Jerusalem has had a single tram line linking Mount Herzl and Pisgat Zeev.

At Mount Herzl, Ammunition Hill, and Pisgat Zeev, there are park and ride options where you can park and then take the Light Rail instead of driving to the city centre, highly recommended as driving in Jerusalem is manic.

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Like the buses there is a fixed 5.90 NIS (£1.33) fare payable by either a Rav Kav card or pre-paid ticket.

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The most popular section that runs from the Central Bus Station to the Damascus Gate (of the Old City) – through Mahane Yehuda, Davidka Square, Jaffa Street, and past City Hall.

 

At its southern terminus at Mount Herzl, you are just a few minutes from Yad Vashem which makes it a convenient way to get here.

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Special note:- The Jerusalem bus and rail systems shut down for Shabbat on a Friday afternoon (buses stop about 30 minutes before sunset, trams a few hours before), and resumes after sunset on Saturday night (likewise, buses start about 30 minutes later, light rail a few hours later). During this time, there is no public transportation in Jerusalem.

If you are driving in the city be aware most of the Ultra Orthodox areas of the city will be closed to traffic during Shabbat. Most of the entry points are closed off with barriers, do not try and circumvent the barriers and respect the road closures.

What To See 

The majority of places visitors want to see are inside the Old City, an area which has barely changed since Biblical times - indeed take away all the electric and phone cables and it would probably look exactly the same.

The walled city is accessed by seven gates, with most visitors entering by the Damascus Gate.

It is only 0.35 square miles (0.9 square km) and until the late 19th century that was Jerusalem in its entirety.

Until 1887 the gates would be closed between sunset and sunrise, effectively closing the city to outsiders.   

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Nowadays the gates don't close, although don't rule out the possibility of being security checked.

Jerusalem Old City Damascus Gate
Church Of The Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

The Damascus gate leads into the Christian Quarter, where the main attraction is the Church Of The Holy Sepulchre, supposedly the site of Christ's crucifixion. 

I say supposedly as it is another of those seemingly random sites chosen on a whim, this time by Empress Helena - mother to Constantine the Great during her tour of the Holy Land. She was the one to announce to the Byzantine world that this spot was the Calvary (or Golgotha) of the gospels.

So basically some old woman, on holiday, decided this was to be a holy site.   

Whatever, the site has been determined to be THE place and the current church dates back to the 11th century, after the original 4th century church was destroyed.

Inside the church is divided into four different quarters, each managed by a different denomination. Opening hours are 05:00 - 21:00 (20:00 Sundays) from April - September and 04:00 - 19:00 the remainder of the year.

Admission is free but, as you can imagine, it is incredibly popular and expect to queue for, at least, an hour. It is quieter at opening time - set your alarm, or stay up all night. It goes without saying it gets incredibly crowded around Easter time.    

In a city of sacred sites the "Big Daddy" of the lot is Temple Mount.  

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Lauded as one of the most sacred sites on earth, the area is respected by Jews, Christians, and Muslims.

This is purportedly the site where Abraham is said to have offered his son up as a sacrifice to God, where Solomon built the First Temple and where the Prophet Muhammad is said to have ascended to heaven.

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The wide plaza, dominating the Old City Old City, is centred around the golden Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem's most iconic landmark.

 

The southern side of the mount is home to the Al-Aqsa Mosque, said to be one of the oldest mosques in the world.

Jerusalem, Temple Mount
Western, or Wailing Wall - Jerusalem

The Western (or Wailing) Wall is the only surviving wall of Jerusalem's First Temple.

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Called the Wailing Wall due to the people's laments for the loss of the temple in AD 70, it is the holiest site in Judaism and has been a place of pilgrimage for the Jewish people since the Ottoman era.

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Visitors are welcome, if respectfully dressed and there are separate areas for men and women.

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The Jewish Quarter of the Old City runs roughly from the Zion Gate east to the Western Wall Plaza. The Jerusalem Archaeological Park, is situated in this quarter and it gives a good explanation of the history of the city.

A series of tunnels lead to excavations which reveal the original street levels of the Old City.

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The Armenian Quarter is the smallest of the quarters in the old city and lacking any of the major tourist attractions it is a comparative oasis of tranquillity and an area to avoid the hoards of pilgrims.    

By contrast the Muslim Quarter is bustling and humming with activity. 

It has a cluster of narrow streets and home to the busiest Souk in Jerusalem expect to be hassled by the traders, usually in  a pleasant way although some seem to be able to take no for an answer.

The traders can spot a tourist a mile away and if you see something that really catches your eye feign disinterest and remember to haggle - you will invariably be able to get what your after for less than half their original starting price.  

Plenty of 14th century buildings remain in the quarter and climb to the roof of Khan al-Sultan for an excellent aerial view of the quarter.

Jerusalem Old City Souk
Via Dolorosa Jerusalem

One pilgrimage attraction spanning more than one quarter is the Via Dolorosa, which is supposed to be the route Jesus Christ took carrying his cross to his place of execution.

It includes the fourteen Stations of The Cross which commemorate events on the day of the execution. 

It is easy to follow the route independently as it is well signposted, although you will have to fight the crowds - not literally.

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However, on Fridays, a procession led by Franciscan monks follows the route, which concludes at the Church Of The Holy Sepulchre.  The procession starts at 15:00 and participation is free. A cross is carried along the route and pilgrims may carry teh cross some of the way. 

The Citadel, also known as the Tower of David, was built by King Herod to protect his palace in around 24 BC.

 

The existing building was built in the 14th century on the foundations of the original. Inside is the Tower of David Museum, which tells the story of Jerusalem. The rooftop offers one of Old City's best views. There is also a Sound and Light show here in the evenings.

Moving out of the Old City now.

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The Mount Of Olives is home to the oldest continually used cemetery in the worldand is another essential stop for religious pilgrims.

 

However even non-believers can appreciate the spectacular Old City panoramas from the peak.

It is said to be the place where God will begin rising the dead on Judgement Day.

For Christians this is also where Jesus ascended to heaven after his crucifixion and subsequent resurrection. The Church of the Ascension is on the top of the mount dates from 1910 and has the best views across Jerusalem.

Jerusalem Mount Of Olives

There are a ridiculous number of churches on the mount, there is the Church of the Pater Noster built next to the site where, according to tradition, Jesus instructed his disciples.

The Church of Dominus Flevit is claimed to be built over the site where Jesus wept for Jerusalem, and further along is the onion-domed Russian Church of Mary Magdalene.

The Gardens of Gethsemane (where Jesus was arrested) and the Church of All Nations are next, while the Tomb of the Virgin Mary is finishes the run of churches.

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Mount Zion is home to Jewish and Muslim shrines as well as a number of churches.

Mount Zion is said to be the place where Christ celebrated the Last Supper and where the Virgin Mary spent the last years of her life.

 

For Jews, Mount Zion's importance stems from this being the place of King David's Tomb.

Up the stairs from the tomb's courtyard, you'll come to the Last Supper Room, which has served as both church and mosque throughout its long history. 

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Outside the Old City's Damascus Gate is Jerusalem's mostly Arab neighbourhood of East Jerusalem.

 

East of the gate, within the gardens at the foot of the wall, is Solomon's Quarries, a cave system that extends under the Old City. According to ancient tradition, the stone for Jerusalem's First Temple was quarried from here.

 

Walk down Nablus Road, you'll come to the Garden Tomb, which dates from the Roman or Byzantine period. It was found and identified as Christ's tomb by General Gordon in 1882, and some Protestant Christians still believe that this is the true site that Christ was buried and rose again.

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From the Old City's Jaffa Gate, you you will  Jerusalem's modern central city district with Jaffa Road running northwest to Bar Kochba Square and Zion Square.

Near Bar Kochba Square is the Russian Compound, dominated by the green-domed Russian Orthodox Cathedral.

 

North from here is Ethiopia Street, where you'll find the Ethiopian Church. The reliefs of lions above the doorway recall the style of Lion of Judah borne by the Abyssinian dynasty, which traced its origins back to the Queen of Sheba.

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North of here is the Mea Shearim district, home to a community of ultra-orthodox Jews.

Some cautions if visiting this area, modest dress (covering arms and legs) is mandatory, and taking photographs of residents is not allowed. The people of Mea Shearim still wear their old East European dress and speak mostly Yiddish.

Hall of Rememberance Yad Vashem, Jerusalem

Whilst interesting from an historical perspective, for me, all the religious buildings in the city pale into utter insignificance when compared to Yad Vashem.

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Yad Vashem is Israel's major Holocaust memorial.

 

In the main building, the Hall of Remembrance, the names of the Nazi death camps are set into the floor and an eternal flame burns in memory of the dead.

 

Opening off the main hall are a room containing victim's names, a photographic exhibition, the extremely moving children's memorial, and an art museum with work produced by inmates from the concentration camps.

 

The extensive surrounding grounds hold numerous works of sculpture and memorials. 

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Take plenty of tissues with you - it is emotionally draining and not an easy experience but, nonetheless, an essential one.

I personally believe every world leader should me made to visit Yad Vashem before their inauguration. I don't think anywhere else could hammer home the futility and evil of war, ethnic cleansing and racism.

 

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