Old Moaner Travel

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list

Grand Union Canal: Knowle to Leamington Spa

The industrial grime of Birmingham is now long gone as the canal meanders through rural Warwickshire

A generally flat stretch of canal until Hatton Locks, where the canal drops 148' (45m), before continuing through Warwick and Leamington Spa.

Section Length: 13.6 miles (21.88 km)

Time Taken: 5 hrs

Dates Walked: 13th and 15th April 2017

Weather conditions: mainly sunny with some cloud, temperature between 10°c and 13°c

Logistics: This section of the walk was completed in two parts.

The first from Knowle to Warwick Parkway (10 miles).

The second part was from Warwick Parkway to Leamington Spa (3.6 miles).

It’s really odd, after finding the King’s Arms at Knowle was the first canal side pub since setting off from Birmingham, twelve miles previously, another pub was encountered just a quarter of a mile further down the canal.

The seemingly non-PC named The Black Boy is located just a quarter of a mile down the canal from the King’s Arms and it also has a “royal” connection. The pub name isn’t at all racist as might be implied from the name. It is actually named after King Charles I and “The Black Boy” was the nickname given to him by his mother, due to his dark complexion and eyes. The current pub was built in 1793 a short distance away from the original pub with the intention of attracting the canal trade, which it still does today.

However, if you are feeling thirsty you may want to stop at either of the pubs because it’s just over three miles to the next one.

The canal meanders through open countryside until Kingswood Junction (also home of the next pub)

At Kingswood Junction there is a short, but significant, spur from the canal. This spur links the Grand Union and Stratford-On-Avon Canals, the canal equivalent of a major motorway intersection.

The canal continues through open countryside and you will hear birdsong as you wend your way south eastwards. Unfortunately, birdsong isn’t the only sound you will hear as this section of the canal is only a couple of hundred yards from the M40 motorway and the all-pervading hum of passing traffic does spoil the tranquillity.

Soon you will have to leave the canal briefly, as Shrewley Tunnel appears, it’s only a short tunnel 433 yds (396 m) but pedestrians have to go over the top, as it were. The pedestrian route takes a steep, uphill horse tunnel initially before emerging at the village high street.

Just to the right of where the horse tunnel emerges is the villages general store, a good place to top up with rations and essentials. The path continues across the tunnel before dropping into a wooded cutting and you re-join the canal.

A mile and half after the tunnel the canal makes a dramatic change.

The section since Knowle has been flat, with no locks. A relatively easy stretch, although the quality of the towpath is variable, be particularly aware of embedded stones sticking up, which are potential trip hazards, as I found out on more than one occasion. Luckily I avoided falling into the canal but I still stubbed my toes – and that hurt.

However, having passed Hatton station, you will reach Hatton Locks, note the use of the word locks – there are 21 of them in little under three miles and the canal drops a staggering 148 feet (45m) – hard work if you’re in a canal boat and quite hard on the ankles for walkers.

It was also hard work for those who built the locks, with the most major work taking place between 1929 and the mid-1930’s, when the locks were widened to their current form. Work carried out by 1,000 workers.

There is a café by the top lock, reasonably priced, and even if you don’t fancy a meal their ice creams are sublime. This is a very popular area and gets very busy weekends and holidays.

As you pass the final lock you will also pass Warwick Parkway station.

Shortly after the locks the canal veers to the left, passing through Warwick but skirting around the town centre and it remains surprisingly semi-rural.

As Warwick town disappears, the canal crosses the River Avon before reaching the outskirts of Leamington Spa. A lovely wide towpath goes past a few retail outlets before reaching the art-Deco Leamington Spa station, where this leg concludes. The station was restored in 2008, incorporating the original art-Deco design to the interior of the station.

Previous: Birmingham - Knowle

Next: Leamington Spa - Buckby

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