Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Grand Union Canal: Fenny Stratford to Tring
A nice open stretch, with the added bonus of an asphalt towpath for most of the way.
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Some typical canal side pubs, tearooms, wildlife and both busy and quiet stretches.
Section Length: 18.41 miles (29.62 km)
Time Taken: 6 hrs 14 mins
Date Walked: 5th & 6th May 2017
Weather conditions: 5th - sunny with light cloud later on, temperature 14°c
6th - overcast but warm, temperature 14°c
Logistics: Leg 1: (Fenny Stratford - Cheddington 11.88 miles) driven to Fenny Stratford then, at end, a mile and a half walk from the canal to Cheddington Station, one train an hour.
Leg 2 (Cheddington - Tring 6.53 miles) Train to Cheddington, one train an hour, then a mile and a half walk to the canal. Tring station is very close to the canal with two - four trains an hour, depending on direction of travel.
As a walker this is, by far, one of the best stretches of the canal, as around two thirds of this stretch is on an asphalt towpath, which is incredibly kind on the feet, the slight downside is the remaining third does feel uncomfortable underfoot at times.
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Leaving Fenny we are faced with a nice flat stretch of canal, passing a few homes before becoming rural again. Once passing under the A4146 at Willowbrook Marina the scenery is, once again, decidedly rural. Stoke Hammond lock is the next landmark, the village is a short walk from the canal but has little to offer, although there is a general store if you need supplies.
Next up is Three Locks, named because there happen to be three locks there, as well as a pub of the same name. The pub has seen a transformation over the past few years from a nondescript spit and sawdust locals pub to what is now a somewhat chic, bistro type, pub.
The food is good, not cheap but not unduly pricey either. They also have a specialist Vegan menu as well.
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It's back to open countryside again as the canal meanders through farmland with the odd tantalising glimpse of a church or property and, for the first time since Blisworth, we end up close to the West Coast mainline again.
The Globe is a typical canal side pub, always popular, with a good range of food and beers at reasonable prices.
The canal gets very twisty as it approaches Linslade and Leighton Buzzard.
Leighton Buzzard is a good place to restock as there is a large Tesco right next to the canal ...... it even has it's own path from the canal. It's probably wise to stock up here as opportunities to refuel the remainder of this section are very limited indeed.
Passing through Leighton Buzzard you initially pass bay houses before reaching Tiddenfoot Waterside Park, a scenic area with plenty of places to picnic. Late July each year it is also home to the Linslade Canal Festival, which is well worth a visit.
Once past Tiddenfoot the vistas are, once again, decidedly open and rural.
Grove Lock is home to the Grove Pub, another popular stopping point, it does get very busy weekends, although they manage to cope with the numbers. It has a large outside seating area and the food is good quality, the sandwiches are substantial. Not cheap but not exorbitant either.
The walk from here becomes quite lonely with only the more determined walkers tackling this stretch. The towpath here is a tad uneven and at Grove Church the towpath swaps sides for the first time in ages.
Locks appear every mile or so along this stretch, usually singles with the odd pairs. At Horton Lock you have a "bail out" option if you are getting tired and a mile and a half walk will take you to Cheddington Station.
The canal eventually passes under the railway, past Pitstone Wharf, which has a small café.
You will then reach the junction with the Aylesbury Arm of the canal, this narrow stretch of canal leads, believe it or not, to Aylesbury, a six mile stroll away - but that's for another day.
Shortly after the junction you reach delightful village of Marsworth.
Marsworth is also home to one of the gems of the canal, Bluebells Tearoom. A traditional tearoom, which is very popular both with walkers, boaters and locals. It can get busy and some of their prices are on the steep side but it's well worth a visit.
This stretch of the canal is very popular indeed and is in stark contrast to the solitude of most of the canal, however the paths are wide and if you a a bird spotter you will be in your element as the adjacent reservoirs are home to much wildfowl.
A flight of seven locks sees the canal rise some 42 feet and the popular stretch of the canal covers this flight, culminating at Bulbourne Junction and the Grand Junction pub.
Once again the canal quietens down, which is a shame as walkers will miss what, for me, is one of the loveliest sections of the canal. Tring cutting is the complete opposite to the wide open rural spaces which typify much of the canal. This deep tree lined cutting is a canal avenue, lovely and cool with dappled light and shadows reflecting on the water, almost two miles of beautiful, quiet solitude.
The walk ends at bridge 135, and a very short walk to the station.
Previous: Stoke Bruerne - Fenny
Next: Tring - Croxley
Return to Grand Union Canal home
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