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Old Moaner Travel
I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list
Brittany
Fortunately absolutely nothing to do with an overrated American singer, Brittany is a delightful area of western France with stunning rugged coastlines, delightful towns and a rich history. The local food is pretty good as well, with seafood predominating.
Brittany is the sticky out, pointy bit at the top end of the Bay Of Biscay. It includes the cities of Nantes and Rennes, the ferry ports of Roscoff and St Malo, the historic and the iconic Mont St Michel.
Rennes is your typical French provincial city, dominated my an ornate cathedral, surrounded by narrow streets with historic half timbered buildings. Most of the central area was rebuilt after a large fire in 1720.
The Hotel De Ville is an impressive building with two blocks at 90 degrees to one another linked by an Italian style clock tower.
Residents of Brittany or Bretons as they are known locally have a strong sense of independence and when the Breton Region was autonomous the Breton Parliament met in Rennes and the old Parliament building is a major attraction in the city.
The town of Fougéres is situated towards the border of Brittany so became a fortified town over the years. the towns fortified chateau is often described as a masterpiece of military architecture - I don't know about that but it certainly is an impressive looking building.
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Dol de Bretange is your typical mid-sized French town and is often the last town passed through before visiting Brittany's and, arguably. one of France's most iconic attractions. It is a good place to stop for a reasonably priced lunch or to pick up supplies before hitting the hot tourist area.
Mont St Michel has to be seen to be believed, Sitting on an island linked to the mainland by a causeway which floods at high spring tides, the Abbey can be seen from miles around.
You used to be able to park next to the island, as seen in the attached photograph. However visitors are no longer allowed that close to the island and a park and ride scheme is in operation. Parking is €14.20 high season €9.10 low season plus a charge of €3 per person, each way on the shuttle bus. If you don't want to pay for the shuttle it is about a mile and a half walk to the island - not accessible during the highest spring tides, approx 110 hours a year.
If you are staying on a hotel on the island you can park closer - ask your hotel for an access code.
The lower levels of the island are given over to hotels, restaurants and souvenir shops set along narrow, winding, climbing streets.
The island is famed for the La Mère Poulard Omelette, an omelette soufflé which has to be seen to be believed - however this speciality comes at a price, a huge price. You're talking an absolute minimum of €28 a head, increasing to €48 for a more luxurious version. I have to confess I have never tried one because I refuse to pay that money for what, basically, is a few eggs.
The Abbey is impressive and stunning and well worth a visit. Admission is €10 (€8 concessions) but slots must be booked in advance.
When the tide is low it is possible to walk round the island, however the tide comes in very fast and it is very easy to get cut off, so check the tide times before venturing out. Before any pedants point out the mount is in officially Normandy, it's on the border with Brittany and worthy of a mention.
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The small town of Cancale probably wouldn't warrant a mention if it were not for its oyster beds, however for lovers of the oyster this is the place to visit.
For the avoidance of any doubt and to stop any argument I will say, unequivocally, at this point that St Malo is the most beautiful and attractive of any of the cross channel ports, either side of the English Channel.
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In the 17th century St Malo was France's premier port, now it caters more for the yachting fraternity.
The main town is pleasant enough but the old walled town, the Intra-Muros, is an absolute gem. The most amazing aspect is it looks really old but most of it had to be rebuilt after 80% of the town was destroyed in WW2.
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It is possible to walk right round the walls of the Intra-Muros
Popular by day the Intra-Muros comes into its own at night as it is home to dozens of restaurants, most of them specialising in sea food, although salt marsh lamb from Bay of Mont-St-Michel is also very popular.
Due to the large number of restaurants in such a small area prices are pretty competitive and you can get an very good quality meal for a modest price.
There are plenty of hotels in St Malo, although due to the towns popularity and because it is a cross-Channel port, prices can be expensive. There are hotels within the Intra-Muros but, be aware, you will have to park outside the walled town.
The opposite side of the harbour at St Malo is Dinard, originally a small fishing village before being "discovered" by British and American society who built mansions overlooking the sea and the town still remains an upmarket resort.
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The River Rance flows into St Malo bay and 13 miles upstream you will find the town of Dinan. The town made its fortune from linen, leather, wood and cereals. The old town is surrounded by a 3km (2 mile) wall, the longest in Brittany. The old town has half timbered buildings and the old town is a delightful place to explore.
The Cótes d’Amor covers Northern Brittany and many say this area epitomises the essence of Brittany with rugged coastlines, remote hamlets studded with amazing churches.
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Such an example is the town of Ploubezre, just off the N12, which would barely warrant a mention, were it not for the Notra-Dame de Kerfons church a stunning church which would not be out of place in a major city or shrine, let alone a small Brittany village.
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Described as a flamboyant Gothic Style the church has been extended over the years but always in keeping with the original so the joins, as it were, cannot be seen.
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The town of Lannion became a boom town with the opening of a major communications centre and the subsequent arrival of a TGV rail service.
Somehow the influx of technology and people had done nothing to spoil the charm and character of this delightful Breton Town, where you will still hear Breton being spoken in the town market.
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Ploumanc’h began life as a small fishing village but it has grown to be one of the most popular resorts in Brittany. The lively harbour is now home to more yachts than fishing vessels and the area is home to countless restaurants. It can be busy in high season but does quieten down in the evenings and outside the peak holiday period.
Although Ploumanc’h is worth a visit I very much prefer Paimpol, a smaller resort with more character and not quite so commercialised, which doesn’t mean you cannot get a great meal in and around the port area.
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There are a few island groups off the coast. The Sept-Isles are home to a bird sanctuary home to many species of sea birds, although t is the puffins who grab the headlines.
The Ile de Bréhat is actually two islands linked by a bridge.
With its own microclimate it is known as the Island of Flowers and is a popular destination for walkers. There is no motorised transport on the island. The northern island is said to be reminiscent of Ireland whilst the southern island has a Mediterranean feel.
The main cities in this are are Tréguier and St-Brieuc.
The former, is the major town which has a sleepy feel, especially in the medieval quarter near the Cathedral. St-Brieuc isn’t what you would call a hot bed of in and debauchery but it is the cultural centre of the area.
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Finistere translates as Land End and it covers the north western part of Brittany.
The city of Morlaix used to be the largest port on the English Channel but lost a great deal of its character when the two largest docks were filled in during the late 19th century and turned into two large squares.
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Fortunately many old, half-timbered buildings remain and the city still maintains some character.
If Neolithic burial grounds float your boat – can’t say it floats mine but we all have different interests – then the Cairn de Barnenez is well worth a visit.
Built around 4,500 BC it is the largest Cairn in Europe, containing 11 burial chambers.
Carantec is a small resort, one of the first to be developed in Brittany.
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The town of Plouescat is worth visiting, if only to see the 16th century covered market in the town centre, one of the few remaining in the region.
The Cote des Abers offers a scenic drive along a rugged coastline with a number of charming fishing villages along the route.
The second largest Breton city, after Rennes is Brest, a military port tracing its history back to when the Romans had a fleet based here.
Almost totally destroyed in WW2 the city has been rebuilt in an uninspiring grid pattern with uninspiring, regimented buildings. Even the cities most ardent admirer would struggle to keep a strait face if they attempted to describe it as beautiful. Functional yes, attractive no.
It is strange no attempt was made to restore the city to its former glory.
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Southern Finistere continues with the rugged coastline, although along this stretch more sandy, sheltered beaches begin to make an appearance.
Crozon is another of those places worth visiting just for the church. In this case an amazing Altarpiece in the church of St Pierre.
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In contrast to the starkness of Brest, Quimper has taken great care to ensure its heritage remains to be seen and it is very much one of those towns where you can easily while away an hour or two.
Or sit down at a café in one of the square and just watch the world go by or people watch.
Concarneau is worth a stop, if only to have a brief stroll round the old walled town, it is only about 300m long and 100m wide, so will not take all day to visit.
The Department of Morbihan forms the central southern coastal area of Brittany.
The rugged coastline continues, with sheltered bays and pretty fishing ports.
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The town of Lorient came into being because the East India Company wanted a port for its trading with the Far East, hence its name, the Orient. Today it is the second largest port in France.
An old super-trawler, Victor Pleven, has been converted into a very interesting museum, showing life abord a factory ship.
The Germans built a submarine base here in 1941 and that is now open to the public.
The old East India Buildings are now a tourist attraction and if you want somewhere really quirky to visit then the old Air-Raid Shelter should fit the bill. This old shelter used to hold 600 people and offers a brief glimpse into wartime life in France.
Carnac is home to Brittany’s foremost prehistoric site, with well over 3,000 standing stones remaining.
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Dating from the Neolithic to Bronze ages, even today why there are there remains a mystery.
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The Gulf of Morbihan is a large natural harbour and a haven for water birds. The area is great for water sports, bird watching, hiking and a multitude of other outdoor pursuits.
Vannes is another of those beautifully preserved mediaeval towns, which can trace its history back to Roman times. The magnificent Place Gambetta holds centre stage inside the walled city, where the Cathedral of St Pierre dominates the skyline and half-timbered houses line the surrounding streets.
Pontivy is the sort of place I would not bother mentioning but it is home to the most appalling racecourse it has ever been my misfortune to visit Medical and veterinary facilities are third world and the jumps made of concrete.
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Loire-Atlantique is the final area of Brittany.
La Baule has a beautiful, golden sandy beach.
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St Nazaire is a major ship building port, still going strong building cruise ships, especially for MSC.
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The 99,000 acre Parc Naturel Régional de la Grande Briére is an area of outstanding natural beauty.
Nantes is the final city in our tour of Brittany. Historic capital of the Dukes of Brittany and the city where the Loire meets the Atlantic. Classical theatres, chateau and cathedrals, with plenty of parks, Nantes is a busy bustling city. (Footnote, Nantes Cathedral was badly damaged by fire in July 2020)
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